Thursday, October 30, 2008
Bean Fest '08: The Finale
It's time to finish up the tale of Good Mother Stallard and all her fixins. When last we met, the cornbread was out of the oven and the beans were simmering away.
You haven't salted your beans yet. It's a rule. I think it's been proven, but I don't question rules. I follow them. It's just the way I am.
So now that your beans are almost done, give them a nice dose of salt. That, of course is up to your tastes. We like it on the salty side. What can I say, I'm my salt-lovin' father's daughter.
In the meantime, we've been doing some extra cooking. We roasted this squash, just to enjoy that glorious thing that is the "Three Sisters": Beans, Corn and Squash. (Not to be confused with the Chekov play...) These Sisters taste pretty darn good together.
We baked this squash cut side down in a 425˚ oven until a paring knife slid easily through the flesh and the edges were brown and crusty. Then Michael melted a little butter in each piece.
Just because we love them, we cooked up some beautiful turnip greens. We used three huge bunches- but they cook way down, so don't be afraid. Just take off the bottom stems and give them a wash. Tear them up into manageable pieces. Then sautée up a few slices of bacon with a cut up onion. Don't worry about the bacon getting crisp- it's a flavoring, not a main player. Fill your pot up with water and bring it up to a simmer. Then add all of those greens- don't worry, they'll fit. Season with salt and pepper. Then just let them cook until tender.
And now, without further ado, the conclusion of Beanfest '08:
Those fabulous heirloom beans, garnished with some raw onion.
Fresh skillet cornbread and roasted squash.
And turnip greens, garnished with a splash of vinegar.
A fine truly American meal, if I've ever seen one. The beans were out of this world. They tasted so incredibly meaty, I could have sworn they were cooked with a ham hock. I've never had beans so good, and I've had a lot of great beans in my lifetime. You must order these beans and give them a try. I promise, you'll never forget them.
Playing,
Meredith
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Cornbread
It's Bean Fest '08 here at a Player and a Baker and I'm excited to continue the tale today with Sue's Cornbread. Sue is Michael's mom, and she's an amazing Southen cook. I think Michael ate this cornbread every day of his young life. He couldn't ever get it perfect until finally we made Sue break it down, step by step. It isn't so much a set recipe. It's all about the feel. We'll get to that later.
For now, things start out innocently enough.
This is the key:
It has to be Aunt Jemima. It has to be self-rising. It has to be white. That's just the way it is. Don't question it. It works.
Measure out about 2 cups of the mix. Mix in 1 teaspoon baking soda. That's necessary when using buttermilk, and well, there's no choice. You must use buttermilk. So extra baking soda it is.
Skillet cornbread: it's a thing of beauty.
More to come: greens, squash, and the reveal of those heirloom beans.
See you soon!
Playing,
Meredith
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Bean Fest '08
It all started in last month's Food and Wine Magazine. Some beans were featured in a cassoulet recipe. And these were'nt just any beans. These were fabulous and rare heirloom beans brought to you by Rancho Gordo. Michael had to get some. So he immediately ordered them. We got six different varieties, but we started with Steve Sando's (founder of the company) favorite:
Monday, October 27, 2008
Cocktail Monday: The Jack London
This one is an original, brought to you by our resident mixologist Michael. We wanted something with cider and fall flavors. A short trip to the local liquor store and a little experimentation and we had ourselves a mighty fine cocktail.
What better spirit to pair with fresh local cider than applejack? I mean it's made out of apples. Ha, talk about stating the obvious.
Further perusal in the liquor store, Michael found this new thing: Ginger- it's kind of a ginger-flavored fortified wine. We thought it might pair well with the apple theme.
So we have a Jack London. Jack for applejack, London for the Brittish origins of the Ginger, and Jack London for the adventurous feeling the cocktail evokes.

Finally a few things we already had: orange bitters, Punt e Mes (a spicy apertif) and of course, apples.
Chill your martini glasses- this baby is gonna be straight up.
Now mix in your shaker:
A splash of Ginger:

1 1/2 ounces of fresh cider:

1 1/2 ounces Applejack:

1/2 ounce Punt e Mes

A dash of orange bitters if you've got them. You could also add an orange twist and regular bitters.

Fill the shaker with ice and give it a gentle shake.

Strain into the chilled glasses:

Garnish with a slice of fresh apple and serve with aged cheddar.

I promise you, even with the slightly obscure ingredient list, this would be a perfect cocktail for a Fall-themed party.
Slightly spicy, fruity and delicious.
You'll love it.
Playing,
Meredith
Thursday, October 23, 2008
The Long Awaited Arancini
Okay, I meant Tuesday, but I worked a lot this week, and didn't get the photoshopping done, and well, it's an age-old tale. I love blogging. But I love resting and following the election like my life depends on it. So now it's Thursday and I give you the beautiful thing that is Arancini.
These fried risotto balls are an excellent use of leftover risotto. It's too gummy the next day when reheated anyway. These make leftovers into a glorious concoction all it's own.
I used Mario Batali's recipe as a guide, which is a great start if you don't have leftover risotto to begin with, as it walks you through those steps as well.
I took a picture of the cookbook, which is all kinds of illegal, I'm sure, but I'm sure old Mario won't mind.
He calls his "Suppli' al Telefono" or telephone wires, because of the delicious strings of mozzarella that occur when breaking open one of these babies.
(Click on the picture to enlarge the image)

Heat up your oil. Mario says all extra virgin olive oil. I say that's crazy, so I used some olive oil mixed with vegetable. Get that oil nice and hot in a dutch oven or heavy pot.

Dice up your mozzarella.

Mix an egg into your risotto. Mine already had plenty of cheese, but if you're following Mario from the start, you'd mix that in here.

I made my own breadcrumbs by drying out stale bread in a warm oven.

Then I pulverized them in the food processor. Store bought are fine, I just didn't have any on hand.

Take a tablespoon of rice, and put it in the palm of your hand. Make an indentation and add a small ammount of the mozzarella.

Cover the filling with the rice and roll into a ball. Roll in the breadcrumbs and set aside.
Hello my beauties!

Fry a few at a time- don't be afraid to let the oil get really hot- you aren't really cooking anything here, so they can go pretty quickly.

Here they are fresh from the oil. Some were prettier than others. The pretty ones had much hotter oil.

They all tasted delcious. Especially with my delicious sauce.

Cook risotto. Make extra. Then eat this. I promise, you won't regret it.
Playing,
Meredith
Monday, October 20, 2008
Teaser: An Excellent Sauce
So this is a simple tomato sauce. I didn't obsessively document every step, because, well- it's just so simple. But it is so darned good, I thought you should have it in your arsenal.
Chop up an onion. Sauteé it in a good 1/4 cup of excellent olive oil. It isn't just a cooking medium, it is a star ingredient, so don't skimp.
When the onion is nice and soft, add 2 sliced cloves of garlic and up to a tablespoon of hot chile flakes. I also added a sprinkle of dried oregano and basil, because I didn't have fresh.

Throw in about 1/2 cup of wine before the garlic gets brown. I used white because that's what was open, and I liked it for it's crisp freshness. Red wine adds a more round sweetness to the sauce. Let that cook down quite a bit.

Then add a large can of chopped tomatoes. Pour water in the can and pour that in to get all the tomato-y goodness. Stir in a few tablespoons of fresh chopped parsley and basil if you've got it.

Then simmer. For a long time. If the sauce gets too thick, add more water. At one point I used a masher to break down the tomatoes a bit. You want the sauce chunky, but not too chunky. I simmered my sauce for over an hour. You could do less, but then you'd have a less complex sauce. Stir in more fresh herbs towards the end.
I served it with Arancini- Roman fried rice balls made from leftover risotto. It was a perfect balance of crunchy cheesy goodness of the arancini with the sweet round tartness of the sauce.

You could definitely eat the sauce like any tomato sauce, over pasta or on a pizza. Or with a spoon. But I promise you, even though you might go back to the jar next week, you won't forget this sauce.
A Player's Tomato Sauce
Ingredients:
1/4 cup good extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1 tablespoon dried chile flakes.
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
a dash of dried basil (if you don't have fresh)
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 16 oz can diced tomatoes
Fresh parsley and basil if you've got it
Sauteé onion in olive oil on medium heat until soft and translucent. Add sliced garlic, chile flakes and dried herbs and stir until you smell the garlic. Pour in the wine and let it reduce a few minutes. Then add the tomatoes with their juices and a can full of water. Add some chopped herbs. Simmer on low heat for at least 45 minutes, adding water if the sauce gets too thick. Use a masher to break up the tomatoes a bit. Towards the end of cooking, stir in fresh herbs. Serve tossed with pasta, or as a dipping sauce for arancini.
I'll tell you all about those tomorrow.
Playing,
Meredith
Thursday, October 16, 2008
I Can't Help Myself
And so, when I saw this picture over at the Gothamist, I had to share it with you. It's just too good.
Democrat? Republican? Who cares. (Well that's not true I care a lot, but I don't think I'm going to change any of your minds at this point.)
This is bi-partisanly funny:

Playing with politics,
Meredith
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Ode To Meat: Marlboro Man's Favorite Sandwich
You know I love the Pioneer Woman. She's an inspiration to me. A true pioneer in the food blogging frontier. Or something like that. She also makes really good stuff. This sandwich is just that. Good stuff.
It's simple food if I've ever seen it: cube steak, onions, bread, some sauce.
But sometimes, simple is good.
Check out PW's recipe and detailed post here. I couldn't help but take pictures of this, because man, it's tasty stuff, and I want you to witness it.
Sautée a sliced onion in some butter. Just so you know, PW uses a lot of butter, and we used some, but not nearly as much as she advocates. So keep that in mind. If you want to be decadent, go ahead. If you're watching your girlish figure, fear not. This meal doesn't have to be a calorie explosion.

We served our sammies with oven sweet potato fries. Simply toss sweet potato sticks in olive oil, salt, pepper, and a little paprika. Then bake at 425˚, turning with a spatula every 10 minutes until they're crispy and brown.

Back to that cube steak, which we know from my chicken fried steak post is just London Broil or Top Sirloin cut into pieces and tenderized. We got these pieces already tenderized, which really saves on the cleanup.
Slice the steaks up.

Season them with salt and pepper. Or, if you're me, watch your boyfriend season them. I promise, I help him a lot...

Then watch your friend cut up the salad you're having to round out this slightly unhealthy but delicious meal. That would be some escarole, which holds up very well against a sandwich and fries.

At some point I stopped taking pictures. Around this time, you should be browning your meat, then tossing in Worschestire sauce (must be Lee and Perrins- we did a taste test) hot sauce, and the onions. I guess I got distracted, because the next picture I have is toasting buns:

And that is a beautiful thing, if I do say so myself.

Here's the final beefy Marlboro Man approved goodness:

And these are crisped to perfection.

An excellent, if slightly messy meal. My MM approved.

Playing,
Meredith
Monday, October 13, 2008
A Perfect Fall Day: Apple Picking in the Berkshires
We decided to head out of New York State and into Massachusetts and it's beautiful Berkshires. The sun was shining even though it was cool, and the apples were ready to go.
Here's where we went:
It was great- lot's of interesting varieties.
Apple picking is so much fun. The scenery is beautiful, and you get to snack.
Michael and Wenonah check out the map of the orchard to plan our route:
I wish you could really grasp the size of this apple tree- it was amazing.
And what an amazing apple picker.
Oh, silly me, that's my boyfriend...
The leaves were just starting to turn on the mountain.
Gorgeous hand modeling, W.
It was a beautiful day. But how could we best highlight this fall bounty?
Simply. And with lard.
Hee hee. I'm not kidding, though. Use my all butter pie crust recipe, but use four tablespoons of leaf lard and six of the butter. It's a thing of beauty. Just ask anyone who's tried it. It isn't porky at all, just delicious.
Today we're making an apple crostata. It's just a very rustic free-form apple pie.
So I peeled, cored and chopped up a bunch of apples. They were small- maybe ten or so- use less if you've got bigger apples. I can't remember the apple variety I used, but make sure you're using a good baking apple like Cortland or Empire. Remember, this is more of a method than a recipe, feel free to improvise.
Sprinkle with a little brown sugar, a couple tablespoons of flour, and the juice of 1 lemon, and let sit on the countertop for at least 15 minutes.
Roll out the pastry on your fabulous marble baking center. Oh, don't have one? Never fear, a good clean regular countertop works just fine.
I rolled it out on parchment paper for ease of transfer.
Once you've got the dough nice and thin, pile on those apples.
Crimp the edges to keep all those juices in. Brush with a beaten egg.
I topped mine with a few pats of butter for extra flavor.
Bake in a 400˚ oven, preferably on a baking stone, until the crust is brown and the apples are tender, about 40 minutes.
We served ours with a little sweetened whipped cream. Ice cream would have been mighty fine as well.
The nice thing about this crostata is that it's not spiced, so it's really all about the pure flavor of the apples. And butter...
Playing,
Meredith
Friday, October 10, 2008
Mac and Cheese, Baby!
This, sadly is my last post from Atlanta. I know we all had to move on, but it was truly fun helping out, and cooking delicious meals for my cousins.
The last night we made mac and cheese and grilled chicken. It was one of the easiest meals I made while I was there. You just sort of throw everything in the pot. This was one that Christie wanted to try from Giada over at Food Network. We made a few little tweaks for our own tastes. For instance, instead of using egg noodles, we went for the traditional macaroni.
Cook them up. We used these "healthy" ones. That makes this whole meal healthy. I promise. Ignore the cheese and cream.

Next we have the cheesy goodness. Grated fontina, mozzarella, and parmesan. Add some milk (we used 2% because that's what we had around) and cream- we used some heavy cream and some Mexican Crema. Crema is a cross between sour cream and heavy cream, and it's intense. I don't know if I'd use it again. Creme fraiche would have been better I think.

Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons of flour.

Oh my, look what we have here:

My very favorite sous chef Boo. She was really excited about the microplane.
Mix everything together, holding back some cheese for the top.

Pour it into your baking dish and sprinkle with cheese.

Boo wanted extra parmesan.

My fabulous and talented cousin Matt seranaded the grilling chicken. (Just so you know, Christie did the marinade, which was a sprinkling of salt, pepper, garlic powder, and maybe seasoning salt? I wasn't watching very closely.)

Bake in the oven at 450˚ until golden brown and delicious.

Garnish with parsley and chives. I like the little oniony bite the chives give.

It was pretty good. Rich, but good. The chicken was very well cooked- Thanks, Tenco!
The best part about cooking for the Thiens?

I didn't have to do the dishes. Doesn't Christie look amazing for just having a baby?
Mac and Cheese
(From Food Network, adapted by a Player)
Butter, for greasing dish
12 ounces macaroni
2 cups heavy cream (or creme fraiche or Mexican Crema)
2 1/2 cups 2% milk
2 teaspoons all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more for pasta water
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups (packed) grated Fontina
3/4 cup (packed) finely grated Parmesan
3/4 cup (packed) grated mozzarella
4 ounces cooked ham, diced, optional
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley and chives
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.
Butter a 13 by 9-inch glass baking dish and set aside. Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to bite, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes. Drain well, but do not rinse.
Whisk the cream, milk, flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper in large bowl to blend. Stir in 1 cup Fontina, 1/2 cup Parmesan, 1/2 cup mozzarella, ham, if using, and parsley. Add the noodles and toss to coat. Transfer the noodle mixture to the prepared baking dish. Toss the remaining 1 cup Fontina, 1/4 cup Parmesan, and 1/4 cup mozzarella in a small bowl to blend. Sprinkle the cheese mixture over the noodle mixture. Bake until the sauce bubbles and the cheese melts and begins to brown on top, about 20 minutes. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.
Miss you, Thiens!
Playing,
Meredith
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
Healthy(ish) Shepherd's Pie
To all the sous chefs I've ever had, I am grateful for your help. But I have to say, there can be only one top sous chef for me, and that's Baylee, or Boo as I like to call her. I like to think of myself as an expert at cooking with kids. Boo is a little younger then my average helper, which meant new challenges. She can't use a sharp knife at all. She really would cut her fingers off. She has a special safety knife, but you have to make sure what she's cutting is soft yet sturdy enough to be easy. Potatoes worked well. I cut them into spears and she diced them up. Cauliflower was a little troublesome. She did pretty well cubing carrot sticks.
But mushrooms were the winners.

I can't remember where I saw this, but it worked so well: slice mushrooms with an egg slicer. Boo did all of them.
This is the kind of meal where mise en place is important. It's best to have all the chopping done before hand.

First you brown your lean beef:

The nice thing about cooking dinner for Boo and her fam is that they keep my company.

Remove the browned beef and any excess fat and sautée the carrots and onions until soft.

Add the mushrooms and thyme and sautée until the mushrooms are cooked. Then add the beef back in and sprinkle in 2 tablespoons flour.

Let that cook a minute, and add beef broth and salt and pepper. Don't forget to stir in your frozen peas- I did, and I regretted it.
Now, while this has all been going on, you've been steaming your potatoes and cauliflower. I did them seperately, potatoes on the stove, and cauliflower in a microwave steamer.
Mash them up, adding some milk and butter. I used this Mexican crema, which is like a rich sour cream.

Here we have the assembled pie- Christie's portion had no cauliflower, as it is quite a gassy vegetable.

It was delicious served with a simple garden salad. Boo ate every bite.

Ellie Krieger's Shepherd's Pie
Ingredients
- 1 pound lean ground beef (90 percent lean or higher)
- 2 teaspoons olive oil
- 2 medium onions, chopped (about 3 cups)
- 3 medium carrots, diced (about 1 1/2 cups)
- 1/2 pound white mushrooms, sliced
- 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 1 cup low-sodium beef broth
- 1 teaspoon salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 1 cup frozen peas
- 1 1/2 pounds Yukon gold or creamery potatoes
- 1 small head cauliflower (about 2 pounds), cut into florets
- 2/3 cup 1 percent lowfat milk
- 2 tablespoons butter
Directions
In a large nonstick skillet cook the meat over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer the meat to a plate. Drain any fat remaining in the skillet.
Heat the oil in the skillet over a medium heat. Add the onions and carrots and cook, covered, until the vegetables begin to soften, about 8 minutes. Raise the heat to moderately-high. Add the mushrooms and thyme and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are soft and their liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes longer. Return the meat to the pan. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Stir in the broth, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/8 teaspoon of pepper and bring to a simmer being sure to scrape up any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Stir in the peas. Pour the mixture into a 12-cup shallow baking dish (about 11 by 9 inches).
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Scrub the potatoes and cut into 2-inch pieces. Arrange the potatoes in a steamer basket, and steam for 10 minutes. Add the cauliflower to the basket and cook until the potatoes and cauliflower are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 15 minutes longer. Mash the vegetables with a potato masher until smooth. Heat the milk, butter, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and a pinch of pepper and stir into the potato mixture.
Spread the potato mixture on top of the meat and bake until heated through, about 25 minutes.
Playing,
Meredith
Monday, October 6, 2008
Cocktail Monday: a Bronx
Here are the players:

Like in a Perfect Manhattan, we've got sweet and dry vermouth and bitters. Gin is what makes this a Bronx. Why? I couldn't tell you exactly. Maybe in the early days of cocktails, people in the Bronx loved gin.
Chill your glasses. You can either fill them with ice and water, or do what Michael did and stick them in the ice bin.

Now we've got 2 parts gin:

To one part sweet vermouth:

And one part dry vermouth. (If just making one, that's 1 oz for the gin, and 1/2 oz each for the vermouths)

Don't forget a few dashes of bitters. Michael used orange bitters, but angostura would be fine. Fee Brothers Whiskey Barrel Aged bitters would be best.
Get yourself a nice curl of orange peel- if you don't have this fancy tool, just slice of a chunk with a paring knife.

Squeeze the juice of the orange into the shaker with the alcohol and ice.

Shake, and strain into the chilled glasses. Wipe that zest around the rim to get those essential oils released, and throw it in the glass.
That's is a fine looking cocktail.

I recommend one after a particularly hard Monday at the office.
My office is a little girl's room on the Upper West Side... And this couch.
Playing,
Meredith
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Crispy Yogurt Chicken
On Saturday, Christie and I sat down on the old iBook and surfed for recipes. We needed simple flavors, and nothing spicy or flatulent. Yes, I said it- we couldn't make beans or cabbage, or use raw onions or jalapeños. It's not for me, or even Christie, Matt, her husband, or Baylee. It's for Brayden who is sensitive to what's going on in his mother's milk. TMI? Well, I thought you might want to know, in case you were cooking for a breastfeeding woman some time. Or who knows? Maybe you want to have a baby some day. It's just good to have all the information.
So we planned the whole week of dinners, including this: Crispy Yogurt Chicken.
It's from Pioneer Woman, a favorite for simple fuss-free cuisine.
First you make a yogurt coating with this stuff:

Garlic, parsley, and yogurt. Simple.

Oh yeah, don't forget a little lemon juice. Look at me using bottled stuff. When it's going to be cooked, it doesn't really matter.

Go ahead and coat your chicken in that. We used chicken cutlets, though PW uses legs. Bone-in breasts would be a good healthy alternative, but these cutlets worked okay, with a few adjustments I'll tell you about.
Who's my sous chef for this venture?

Baylee of course! Look at her awesome play kitchen. I would have gone to town on that baby when I was young. I had the old Fisher Price number, though, and that was pretty good.
Set up your assembly line. Yogurt coated chicken, panko bread crumbs seasoned with salt, and the baking dish lovingly buttered by my little cousin.

Lay out the chicken and top it with a few slivers of butter.

PW says bake at 350˚ covered for an hour or so, and uncovered for 15. Chicken cutlets should have taken less time, but they were too low in the oven, and ended up taking the full time. Next time with the thin cuts, I probably wouldn't have covered them at all. If you've got bones in, definitely cover. But always make sure your food is in the center of the oven for stuff like this, unless otherwise stated. I should have known better, but I wasn't paying attention.
It turned out crispy and delicious eventually.

We served it with green beans and a strawberry walnut salad.
What a lovely family.

Get the recipe here, and have fun!
I'm having a great time here. I hate to go, but never fear- the fun's not over quite yet- I've got more stories to tell about this lovely trip.
Playing,
Meredith






























